Skin Needling Treatments Remove Wrinkles

What is Derma Roller or Skin Needling?

Recently, while walking around at the 2009 Beauty Expo in Long Beach, CA, I noticed a large number of booths selling these small rolling devices, covered with many short needles. Curious whether these were new parenting tools to scare unruly children or for skincare, I decided to research it further. The cosmetic representatives claimed these new facial rollers could increase collagen production and reduce wrinkles.

The derma roller is a very small rolling device that contains 192 micro points made of surgical steel. While it goes by different names, ‘skin needling,’ ‘dermaroller,’ or ‘meso roller,’ among many others, it appears to be a simple and natural method that promises to prevent skin aging, restore collagen, smooth out scars, pitted skin, and stretch marks - or your money back in some cases.

Research On Skin Needling

The skin needling device is used along with your normal skincare routine to remove acne scars, stretch marks, wrinkles, fine lines. Representatives say it can even help with big pores, black heads, and white heads. This micro needling or skin needling anti-aging technique is also used to perform collagen induction therapy (CIT). Studies show that when this device is rolled over the skin, it creates small puncture wounds which cause the body to produce collagen in an attempt to heal the skin. Our collagen production falls dramatically after about age 35 or so.

How the Derma Roller Works

Published instructions say when you roll this device over the skin it creates small puncture wounds into the top layer of the skin. This puncturing will then cause a type of wound-healing reaction for the dermal layer to begin production of collagen fibers, elastin, and other skin cells that helps to fill in lines, wrinkles, remove stretch marks and fill in deep pitted scars – also allowing the derma roller to be a great acne scar treatment.

In addition, the derma roller allows for optimum absorption of any anti-aging cream you may use afterwards. Each time you use the derma roller, the collagen building effects continue for weeks- smoothing stretch marks, acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles.

Unlike other skin rejuvenating techniques, the derma roller doesn’t require downtime for healing. And, unlike chemical or laser peels, the derma roller can be used safely by women and men of color because it doesn’t affect skin pigmentation.

The Studies

In 1994, Dr. Philippe Simonin, a Swiss Dermatologist, performed a study on 600 people divided into two groups - the skin-aging group and the scar reduction group. Published results found that in the skin aging group there was a 40% significant improvement and an impressive 60% improvement in scar reduction group.

Another doctor, Dr. Andre Camirand, a plastic surgeon from Canada, found that skin needling improved the texture and depression of scars and also improved over-all skin color and texture. He also found this remodeling process can go on up to 12 months from each treatment.

Further study results by plastic surgeons and dermatologists claim in that addition to reducing the appearance of sun damage and wrinkles, (such as crows feet), skin needling can help lessen or remove stretch marks, cellulite, acne scars, surgical scars and smooth out pitted skin and dimpling.

In addition, it allows maximum absorption of your best wrinkle creams or any anti aging creams. Each rolling session can stimulate collagen to reduce wrinkles and scars - like a mini-instant face lift.

Do You Have Sensitive Skin?

• Is your skin easily damaged or irritated?
• Is your skin dry, delicate and prone to irritant or allergic reactions?
• Does your skin have a reduced tolerance to cold, heat, wind, temperature changes, or pollution?

If you answer yes to any or all of these questions, consider yourself a member of the “sensitive skin” club to which 56 per cent of Canadian women claim to belong. Of this group, more than 46 per cent also have dry skin.

What is sensitive skin?

Generally if you have easily irritated or reactive skin, then you have ‘sensitive skin’. Most of the time sensitive skin relates to the face. Sensitive skin can be caused by a genetic predisposition or environmental factors. It appears as a redness, a swelling, itchy and dry irritation to the face. One of the major jobs of the skin is to waterproof. This is done to the epidermis or surface layer of the skin, producing a fat-protein sandwich that is always being replaced and is vital to prevent too much water loss from the skin.

Symptoms of sensitive skin include:

• A tingling or tightening of the skin without visible signs
• “Overreaction” to skin care or cosmetic products
• Reactions to shaving, or other physical stress to the skin

Sensitive skin can also be a heads-up for other conditions, such as:

• Altered skin — due to shaving, waxing, medications or heat, cold, wind, and pollution. Also, laser or chemical peels or scar removal
• Allergic skin – the sudden appearance of redness or swelling and itchiness
• Atopic skin – dry skin that is itchy and produces eczema. Eczema is related to hayfever and asthma. (see Eczema Guide for more information)
• Rosacea skin - blood vessels of the face enlarge resulting in a flushed sensation or a redness of the skin

What to do about your skin?

• Perfume or scented creams can be irritating.
• Rinse well after using cleansing products, which should be mild and soap-free as they do not remove so much oil from the skin (www.MildCleanser.ca gives you more information about this kind of cleansers)
• Use a moisturizer and sunscreen that is formulated for sensitive skin
• Don’t over wash your face. Temperature of the water should be tepid; neither hot or cold
• Don’t use exfoliants
• Be aware of seasonal temperatures. The sudden dryness of winter can mean itchy, dry skin until the skin responds by increasing oil production to reduce the water loss
• For breakouts use a cleanser with salicylic acid to help exfoliate pores. There are also moisturizers that contain salicylic acid

Be sensitive to stress

The causes and effects of stress on the body are not fully known, but for some people stress interferes with the body’s systems that repair and regulate the skin. Stress kills your natural antioxidant defenses, which help to prevent accelerated aging of the skin. Hormones can also trigger a histamine release within the skin causing it to erupt in bumpy redness, or breakout in hives.

Desensitize yourself

When choosing makeup, especially foundation and blush, buy oil-free products. Makeup that is water-based won’t clog pores. Look for oil-absorbing foundations that help keep oil off the face.

As for the rest of your body, check ingredients and avoid harsh chemicals in soaps, shampoos, body cleansers and creams, bath oils, bubble baths, etc.

Put your best face forward

• Watch your alcohol intake, spicy foods and caffeine
• Try to avoid excessive temperature changes
• Use the right cleansers, moisturizers and cosmetics
• Manage stress as best you can

By Richard Thomas, MD, FRCPC

Skincare for Dry, Wrinkled Skin

Many of us, women especially, can relate to the phrase, “I just don’t have the time.” Conversely, if you grew up in any generation or location that frowned upon wearing makeup or using ‘beauty products’ as ‘unnatural’, you might have recently had second thoughts as those lines began to show a little too much, or those dark spots were just getting darker.

You have lived long enough to know “beauty isn’t everything,” but the truth is, when it starts to fade, boy, does it sure seem more important!  Regardless of the circumstance that finally brought you to shock the last time you looked in the mirror, the good news is; there are always second chances when it comes to taking care of your skin. The older you are, the more important it is to get started with a quality skin care regimen.

Three simple steps can aid your skin back the face you knew yesterday. You might have heard this before, but here it is again…just in case you need a refresher.

1. Cleanse - but gently. Too many professional skin care products strip your facial skin of the natural elements it needs to keep your skin soft and supple. Using a mild cleanser with a very light, delicate scent that won’t leave your face feeling tight and dry. For damaged, wrinkled skin, a moisturizing cleanser or cream cleanser is best.

2. Exfoliate - Many exfoliating products using sand or walnut shells can be too harsh to use daily - try to find a gentle exfoliating product – a natural clay or organic oatmeal. Natural skin care products tend to be less irritating and will not only exfoliate the grime and pollution of the day from your delicate facial skin, they also moisturize, soften, and increase your body’s collagen and antioxidant production.

3. Moisturize - Use a dry skin care anti aging lotion each morning after cleansing. Excellent high quality moisturizers not only replace vital moisture in your face but leave it soft and smooth. Additional moisture will also supplement the antioxidants your skin needs to produce to stay looking healthy and young. If you use an SPF of in your moisturizer or foundation, it will also help protect your face from sun damage throughout the day.

One more thing…

The goal of your skin care routine is to address wrinkles, dark spots and dryness with products that deliver lighting, moisturizing and anti-wrinkle ingredients.
It’s not enough to get a facial to keep your skin clear and beautiful. You need to have a great home skin-care routine. I never hurts, to get a professional facial to deep cleanse your skin at least four times a year, as the seasons change. Every 4-6 weeks is ideal. But please, throw away the grocery-store soap and use quality skin care products that are right for your skin type. Also, if it still has to be said, wear sunscreen, even on cloudy days and in the winter. Use a good quality, high-SPF sunscreen. Sun damage is the single most important cause of premature aging. Last, if you have a tendency to engage in skin-damaging habits like smoking, excessive drinking, and tanning booths, please try to reduce or eliminate these habits altogether.

Remember, you want your skin to reflect and shine the beauty that we know you already are on the inside. Make all those years of wisdom and experience show on the outside as well.